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Bicycle Tours in South Western Australia:Bunbury - Albany & return12 days, 779 km [map]
"The Great Ride" The Great Ride of 1987 was a major departure from previous rides, those between 1977-1985, and contained the 'Chesapeake Road' episode which has become a life metaphor and was referred to in the 1998 ride story The 1987 ride was not surpassed for total distance and nights on the road until 1996, and that ride had a lower number of kilometres per day. Day 1, Bunbury - BalingupMonday 5 October 1987. Fine, southerly headwind. Speedo read 11111 at Bunbury - the devil's number. A bad omen? Time would tell. I left the rail terminal just before 1 and headed down North Boyanup Road. First stop was Donnybrook where I rested a while. The going was hard because you rise steadily as you go down this road. At Kirup I stopped again for a drink and felt confident then that I would reach Balingup, which I did not long after 5. Balingup Guest House: no soap or towels, no lock on the door. Huge German Shepherd, of whom the place smells, wandering about. $15. No food. Had to stumble through the darkened town and knock on the back door of a locked shop to get biscuits and pies and milk for dinner. Showered, washed riding clothes, changed, rang home, then rang the Manjimup Hotel to book a room for Tuesday night. There was also staying at the guest house a man from Sydney, riding around WA on a mountain bike. He said he had been from Busselton to Dunsborough and back that day, then got a lift to Donnybrook whence he had ridden to Balingup. He reckoned to have done about 100km that day but 78km would be nearer the mark. He told of an attack of cramp on entering Balingup and said he just drank water while riding. I advised him to eat well generally and to suck barley sugar and have sweet drinks while on the road. He planned to go to Nannup the next day and I advised him about the road. During the evening I began to feel sick and feverish and feared a recurrence of the disaster of 1985, but the feeling gradually passed and I determined to continue. On this first day I had noticed that the speedo distance reading was consistently 5 - 6% low, measured against the 5km pegs on the roadside. This proved consistent throughout the trip and it was necessary to apply a correction to determine the actual distance travelled each day. Reading at Balingup: 11173km. Corrected day's ride: 65km. Cumulative: 65km. Average km/day: 65.
Day 2, Balingup - ManijimupTuesday 6 October. I left for Manjimup at 8:53, rode over the bridge and up the steep curving hill past the ruined chimney. Got up Hester's Hill before Bridgetown without getting off. Rested for drink and food at Bridgetown. The road is less hilly towards Manjimup. Just out of Bridgetown I passed 2 cyclists, one of whom had his bike upside down, and both were working on it. I asked if everything was all right and they said, yes thanks. A few kilometres on I looked back and they were right with me. One overtook me - I overtook him again, then fortunately they turned off to the left and the race wasn't prolonged. I got to Manjimup early afternoon and booked into the hotel. No ensuite shower and toilet, just washbasin, $20. Had a rest, then showered, washed riding clothes, changed and went shopping for food and brake blocks. Looked around the town. I had originally thought of getting to Walpole in one day, 120 km, but having done only about that in the first 2 days I didn't feel confident about it. There was supposed to be a small guest house at Quininup, 30km towards Walpole, but I couldn't find its 'phone number. By chance at the Manjimup Hotel, where I was using the 'phone, I met a man whose parents lived at Quininup. He rang them for Kathy's 'phone number but she had gone to Perth. So I had to rethink. I decided to go to Northcliffe the next day and go on to Wapole from there on Thursday, thereby reducing the trip to about 104km, using the sealed road that meets the SW highway at Shannon. Had takeaway Chicken Dinner for tea. Reading at Manjimup: 11233 km. Corrected day's ride:63 km. Cumulative distance: 128 km. Average km/day: 64.
Day 3, Manjimup - NorthcliffeWednesday 7 October. Sky overcast. Drizzle began as I turned right onto the Vasse Highway, heading for Pemberton. The gear levers began to squeak. I stopped in Pemberton for refreshments. A woman travelling around in a caravan with her husband came to ask my advice on bike-riding round the south-west. She showed me maps prepared to show bikies the way but they didn't help with my immediate problem. I resumed my journey, rolled down through Pemberton then began the long climb in bottom gear up that hill to the Northcliffe turnoff. With one short drink-stop I arrived at Northcliffe and booked into the hotel, usual routine, went shopping. It wasn't till this point that I started to plan how I was going to get back to Bunbury, knowing I was committed to going back via Albany if I reached Walpole. I didn't even have complete maps and had to buy one at Northcliffe. While poring over the maps and accommodation guide I decided that if I got to Albany, thereby wanting to return to Bunbury via the Albany Highway, I would have the option of stopping at Cranbrook if I couldn't make the 104 km from Mount Barker to Kojonup in one day. I also found another road from Northcliffe to Walpole running along the coast past Broke Inlet. Looking through other maps and asking hotel staff revealed that it was called Chesapeake Road, it went right through and it was unsealed. No-one could tell me what the surface was like but I didn't have any forebodings and decided to try it, feeling confident in the venture. There were no distance markings on the maps so I estimated the distance to Walpole this way at about 75 km, about 50 km of which would be gravel. Before dinner (pepper steak) I oiled the bike then went for a walk through the Northcliffe Forest Park. There was a wide variety of wildflowers and shrubs, helpfully labelled and described, and numerous karri trees over 70m tall with the cries of birds echoing in their distant top foliage. There was a twin karri, two enormous trees growing almost straight up from a common base. Reading at Northcliffe: 11293 km. Corrected day's ride: 63km Cumulative distance: 191km. Average km/day: 64.
Day 4, Northcliffe - Walpole - the Chesapeake RoadThursday 8 October.
I left Northcliffe at 7:07 on a cool but sunny morning with a light westerly, went down the Windy Harbour road for about 6km then turned left into Chesapeake Road. This was an exciting moment as I ventured beyond paved road into the unknown. The surface was bikeable and the radio said that the westerly would strengthen during the day. Bumping and jarring were continuous, with regular skids. For some reason I find this sort of riding less mentally tedious, though more physically arduous, than riding on the smooth sealed highway - as long as I know how much gravel there is and have plenty of time to negotiate it. I continued to feel relaxed and confident about the day's work. Interesting swampy scrub, full of life, gradually became tall forest as I headed east. I stopped near Gardner River for a drink, but missed the Shannon River picnic area which I had intended to be my next stop. At one point a grey kangaroo as big as myself jumped out of the forest and bounded along ahead of me for a while before crunching back into the trees. At last I reached Broke Inlet turnoff, pleased because I now knew that I was on the right track and could better estimate how far I had to go. It turned out that my original estimate of 75km was about 10km low but it didn't matter at this stage because I only had about 30km to go, 7km of it gravel. I had plenty of time, I felt good, the bike was holding up and I quietly knew that I would make Walpole now. With about 1 kilometre of gravel to go I skidded in a sandbog at the bottom of a steep hill and had to walk the bike up the next rise, being unable to get enough way to get into bottom gear. At this point the radio began playing the rock version of J.S.Bach's toccata and fugue in D minor and this energised me and swept me up in a tremendous euphoria. I marched that bike up the hill to the insistent beat. It seemed a good omen. A kilometre later, there indeed was the SW highway, with a 2 metre black snake stretched across the gravel track just at the intersection. I nearly ran over it before I saw it. It reared up its head like a cobra then slithered hastily back over itself to get away. The kilometre posts told me I had joined the SW highway 26km out of Walpole and as I proceeded I was aware of physical relief together with increasing mental weariness. Strange. The shop at Crystal Brook was closed and apparently damaged by fire, so I kept going. There was a long steep climb from Deep River bridge to the Tinglewood Lodge turnoff, and this finally did me in for the day. Fortunately it was nearly all down hill from there into Walpole, and I struggled wearily to the Seagull Autel. Passable cabin with washbasin, $15. Dumped all the luggage and cycled about 1km to the Walpole Inlet where I had what was to be my only swim for the trip, in the curiously orange salt water. Cycled back, had a smug rest (made Walpole!) then cleaned the dusty bike, showered, laundered and changed and went to the shop where I bought a pile of food and drink. The rest of the day passed lying around eating and reading. Reading on arrival at Walpole: 11373 km. At day's end: 11377km Corrected distance from Northcliffe: 84. Corrected day's ride: 88. Cumulative: 279. Average km/day: 70.
Day 5, Walpole - DenmarkFriday 9 October. I decided to make a detour, on the way to Denmark, through the Valley of the Giants. I intended to stop at the first picnic spot shown on the map, then return to the SC highway via Rate Road, thereby not adding much to the day's journey. I couldn't find the first picnic spot on Rate Road and ended up in the main picnic area, having to return to SC highway the long way round via Valley of the Giants Road, emerging at Bow Bridge. Anyway I had a picnic in the picnic area then took the walk trail. The 'giants' were tingle trees, giant in girth rather than height. They didn't impress me as much as the karris at Northcliffe but were interesting by being burnt into huge hollow caves at the base, yet still living. The wind went around to the south, then the southeast and freshened as I continued towards Denmark, forewarning of what was to be the major problem of the trip. At Denmark I booked into a $30 motel unit with all facilities but not enough hot water. Looked around the town - so pretty it's almost unnatural. Brought the distance log up to date. Had pizza for dinner. Was woken in the night by headlights shining straight through the window. The people kept their engine running for 10 minutes while they swore at the motel keeper. Then they roared off. Reading at Denmark: 11447km. Corrected day's ride: 73km. Cumulative distance: 352km Average km/day: 70.
Day 6, Denmark - AlbanySaturday 10 October. The morning was sunny and cool but as I feared a strong and freshening wind blew from the east - the direction in which I was heading. I left shortly after 8 and was under pressure on this day because I wanted to get to Albany and find a decent supermarket before Saturday closing. The country was most pleasant in the spring sunshine but I was gradually developing a pain in the legs from which I was not to recover, night or day, until after the end of the trip. I ground on to Albany, finally descended between the two hills into the town and arrived at a Coles New World supermarket at 11:57, to find they were open until 1. Did a pile of shopping to last till Monday, booked into the Albany Hotel. Nice room with a good view over the harbour, washbasin, $15. After the usual feed, rest and cleanup went for a good look around this historic town. Saw the full-size replica of the brig 'Amity', most impressive. Saw the old railway station. Identified places remembered from previous visits - last one in 1971. Wind blew furiously from the east all the time, very cold. Finally made some 'phone calls and went back. Had takeaway Chinese food for tea. Reading at Albany: 11497km. Corrected day's ride: 53km. Cumulative distance: 405km. Average km/day: 68.
Day 7, Albany - Mount BarkerSunday 11 October. The roaring easterly that had blown all night and now freshened, helped me for the first few km, but was so strong that the effort of holding a straight riding line cancelled whatever relief it gave me. By Narrikup it was blowing straight across my path. I stopped at the Narrikup country store, had a snack, looked at the arts and crafts. After climbing a steep hill 9km out of Mount Barker I looked back and could just see the twin hills of Albany. The wind was very slightly against me by now, backing ENE. It was noticeable how rapidly the country was turning from green to brown as I approached Mount Barker. This brownness wasn't to turn to green again until I got towards Darkan later in the week. When I got to Mount Barker I didn't climb the hill of the same name as I had originally intended, because I was too worn down by the wind. I booked into the Plantagenet Hotel, pleasant old-fashioned pub with guests' lounge and TV, room $18. Usual routine, then looked around the town. The Mount Barker railway station must have been a source of pride in its day but, though it would only have become redundant during the seventies, it is a ruin now. Smashed windows, holes in the roof, rubbish and the debris of fires all over the floors, the platform collapsed. They should either fix it up or get rid of it altogether. From a point at the top of a steeply sloping street (most of the streets in Mount Barker seem to have names starting with M) I could just see the twin hills of Albany, 50km away. I could see the Stirlings clearly now too. The wind roared on. There was a seven days takeaway shop not far from the hotel and I got chicken and chips and crumbed sausages and ate them watching TV. Reading at Mount Barker: 11546. Corrected day's ride: 52km. Cumulative distance: 457km. Average km/day: 65.
Day 8, Mount Barker - CranbrookMonday 12 October. The morning was overcast and the wind blew gale-force, spitting rain, from the north-east. I had thought the previous night that it would be good to turn right off the Albany Highway at Kendenup and take a detour through the western edge of the Stirlings. This would have nearly doubled the day's ride and most of the addition would have been gravel with presumably many steep hills and sandbogs. When I got to the Kendenup turnoff I felt the force of the opposing wind and saw the Stirlings becoming shrouded in rain or low cloud. I decided to save the Stirlings for a separate ride in the future. So my day's ride was only 42km but it seemed hard enough. The Cranbrook Hotel was a real old-fashioned pub very like the Harvey Hotel before the fire. I was surprised - Cranbrook being the closest substantial town to the Stirlings, I expected to see a tourist motel. Perhaps our little mountains bore the Japanese. Usual routine, found the town very neat and clean and new-looking, laid out on flat land in a spacious grid pattern with large gums as street trees. A big wooden arch over Salt River Road proclaimed "Gateway to the Stirlings". I walked under the arch and back again. Till next time. The hotel was full of Main Roads Department men on a local job. I had a salami and salad roll and a round of brie for tea. Reading at Cranbrook: 11586km. Corrected day's ride: 42km. Cumulative distance: 499km. Average km/day: 62.
Day 9, Cranbrook - KojonupTuesday 13 October. The wind had shifted round to the north-west overnight but maintained its intensity. I was now heading north-west. I hoped that it might shift southerly during the day but there was no chance of that, according to the radio, because the approaching cold front wasn't due through till night. Patchy showers fell. The undulating country was pleasant but the ride was hard. I was glad at last to come to the top of a rise and see Kojonup spread out below, and to come abreast of a sign and see that it said KOJONUP. The motel unit was $27. It had a locked connecting door to the next unit and people there could be heard as clearly as though in my room. Usual routine, the town is attractive with many streets lined with copper-beech trees. I looked down one street facing west and the sun shone through these red leaves all the way up the hill. I went to get a pizza for tea and had a chat with the shopkeeper about my ride and other things. During the evening I used a piece of wet cotton on the map to measure the next day's ride to Darkan and found that it was 80km rather than about 60 as I had originally guessed. Feeling as I did and with storms forecast for the next day I would have given up if there had been any acceptable option. Rain poured down during the night and the people in the unit next door laughed and shouted and watched TV till the small hours. This was the worst night's sleep of the trip. Reading at Kojonup: 11650 km. Corrected day's ride: 67km. Cumulative distance: 566km. Average km/day: 63.
Day 10, Kojonup - DarkanWednesday 14 October. I left Kojonup shortly after 8. The main cold front had passed through in the night so the showers were no longer continuous and there were periods of sunshine, but the wind varied from strong WSW to gale-force WNW and was very cold. I had to wear my spray jacket on top of my shirt. Including shelter stops it took me nearly four hours to cover the 45km to Moodiarrup. One of the shelter stops was at a large deserted hall in a forest and was the only adequate one. At Moodiarrup I had lunch and talked with the shopowner. She and her husband had built the shop in 1954 and been there ever since. Now they were just selling up and moving out to retire to Mandurah. Another squall came through and I sheltered there till after 1. The heading was now more northerly so that the wind helped me when it backed WSW after a squall. There was no adequate shelter when a squall came through and once I shivered under a bush while hailstones bounced off the bike. I passed through Duranillin which was very quiet. When I was 17km from Darkan I faced a long steep hill and the wind backed against me again and became stronger than it had been all day. I suddenly felt I couldn't go on. I stopped, sat on a log and drank Lucozade as the squall rolled in. Then I had to continue, did another 4km before the rain hit and I had to scurry under a large blackboy [grass tree]. At that point I knew in that mysterious way that happened at some point in each day's ride, that I was going to make it. 13km to go, then 12, 10, 7 and at about 4km from Darkan the climbing stopped and I had a great downhill run into the town, arriving just before 4pm. The hotel was small with one storey and the original structure seemed to have been converted entirely to a family home for the owners. The guest rooms were a number of rickety asbestos units grafted onto the back, all open to the outside. A freezing wind blasted through. My bed was adequate but neither the electric blanket nor the bedside light worked because two electric blankets and a light had been too much for the fuse on the power-point. The hot water in the showers went off completely as soon as anyone turned on a hot water tap anywhere in the building. $15. There were no meals but a roadhouse was just a step away. After a shower, change and look round the town which was neat and pretty I shopped for breakfast, made the usual 'phone calls then went and got chicken and chips and sausages at the roadhouse, and made an early night. Slept really well. Reading at Darkan: 11728km. Corrected day's ride: 82km. Cumulative distance: 648km. Average km/day: 65.
Day 11, Darkan - CollieThursday 15 October. Morning frosty but sunny for the first hour after sunrise, before a dull overcast set in and stayed. Breakfast was pre-packed cooked pepper steak, an entire swiss roll and a litre of milk. Set off for Collie, first few km all uphill, thought I was done for. Somehow the kilometres got under the wheels, though, and the country was nice with the winds backing southerly and moderating. I kept thinking I saw steep hills ahead but they turned out only to be gaps of grey sky showing through the trees. There's no such places as most of the places marked on the map between Darkan and Collie. I arrived in Collie in the early afternoon and stayed at the Crown Hotel. Average value for money. Usual routine, town larger than most with seedy parts to it. I was intrigued by a church built in a conventional style for the period except for an italianate tower and dome grafted onto the back, and by a run-down wooden house with broken glass and timber and smashed asbestos panels and a carefully built new set of ornamental brick steps leading up to the rotting verandah. Collie River nice. Booked the Australind express for next day. Had Chinese takeaway food for tea. Reading at Collie: 11787km. Corrected day's ride: 62km. Cumulative distance: 710km. Average km/day: 65.
Day 12, Collie - BunburyFriday 16 October. Left Collie at 7:35 am, day chilly and overcast with winds freshening from the west yet again. Anxious on this last day to avoid disaster so I allowed 7.5 hours to cover the 53km to Bunbury rail terminal. Very hilly for a long way, then suddenly I came to the top of a rise and had a glorious view of the coastal plain and the sea. After that it was mostly downhill with Europe-like scenery, hills and valleys and fields and woods. The last few km to SW highway I sat on the bike while it rolled on at 60-70 km/h. I reached Bunbury in a little over 3 hours and arrived at the rail terminal just before 11. I got everything organised and impressed a gratifyingly astonished railway official with what I'd been up to for 12 days. Having left all the heavy luggage at the rail terminal I did another 16km riding around Bunbury to fill in time. I saw the old familiar places and visited the historic Picton Church, now totally hemmed in by suburbia. I looked at the old gravestones and was intrigued by one to the Flahertys, Edward and Esther. Edward died in 1884, aged 49. His widow finally died in 1942, aged 86. She would have been 28 when he died and lived 58 years a widow, apparently never remarrying. The end of the ride finally came when I boarded the soon to be retired Australind train after having hung up my bike in the luggage van. Reading at end: 11853km. Corrected day's ride: 69km. Cumulative distance: 779km. Average km/day: 65.
This story was originally written into a clone of an Apple IIE computer and printed on a crude early dot-matrix printer. That computer failed in 1989 and the 1987 story was faithfully copied, from a retrieved printout, into an XT computer with a slightly better printer. It then went on to be reformatted successively into Microsoft Works 1 and 2, Word for Dos 5, Word for Windows 2, 6 and 7, then WordPerfect, of course on a succession of upgraded computers, the 286, the 386SX, the 486 2x66DX and more recently an old Pentium. Charles A. Pierce, 1987 Do you have questions about bicycle touring in Western Australia's SouthWest? You're welcome to ask Charles!
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