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Bicycle Tours in South Western Australia:Armadale - Pemberton - Nannup - Cottesloe
11 days, cumulative distance 712 km [map] "The Great Loop"
Day 1, Armadale - PinjarraMonday 21 October 1991. I took the train to Armadale station and left there at 10.05, with the odometer reading 21939. The 5km pegs showed that the odometer was reading about 4% low. This remained constant throughout the trip.
This time I laid down a better memory. There was a light headwind, and I and the bike were much improved from 13 years before. I stopped for a drink at 21954, 21969 and 21984. There were shops ( for future reference) at 21956, 21962 and 21979. The country was green and many flowers were out. Large trucks were more numerous than I remembered. I reached Pinjarra (21995) at 1:27. The motel was about 1km south of the town centre. The radio was on, the bell was working, all the doors were open with locked flyscreens, a dog barked wildly but there were no people around. I rode back to the town centre to get some drinks and food for the next day, then went back to the motel. Still no-one. I lay on the grass beside the pool and eventually the proprietor showed up, a young pregnant woman who had been kept waiting in the doctor's surgery. Presumably she couldn't afford to employ someone to be around the motel all day. This is common now. This motel was the best value for money of the trip. $40 single included the pool, all facilities, toast and cereal and fruit juice for breakfast. The pool was surrounded with small palm trees and a carefully built and maintained garden and lawn, with tables and chairs and a little wooden platform to jump off. I looked at the town's historic buildings and the river and the bridge. There is a suspension footbridge over the river built by army engineers as part of a walk trail. I took a pizza back to the motel for tea. Reading at Pinjarra: 21997km. Corrected day's ride: 60km. Speed to Pinjarra: 17.2 kph.
Day 2, Pinjarra - HarveyTuesday 22 October. Left Pinjarra at 9.01. The headwind was still not strong and did not increase much during the day's ride. I stopped at 22009, then at Waroona (22020), changed since I last rode through in 1977. It now has a big motel and wide brick-paved footpaths and a general spruced-up look. Like many towns, it describes itself as the gateway to something. I rested again at 22034, then arrived in Harvey (22048) at 12.16. The Harvey Hotel burnt down during the 1980's but instead of abandoning it they decided to rebuild it in a traditional way but with modern comforts. The long corridors and high-ceilinged old rooms are still there but many rooms now have private plumbing, including a small bottle of local wildflower scented shampoo. The dinner, pepper steak, was excellent, the best of the trip. $38 for the room. I took a walk round the town before dinner, shopped, saw the long straight streets, quaint houses, many of them for sale, the footy ground, the library, churches. Reading at Harvey: 22048. Corrected day's ride: 53km. Cumulative distance: 113 km. Average 56.5 km/day. Speed to Harvey 16.3 kph.
Day 3, Harvey - DonnybrookWednesday 23 October. This was going to be one of the challenges of the trip. I had decided to bypass Bunbury and go straight to Donnybrook via a short-cut through Waterloo and Dardanup. It looked like about 70 km, and I didn't know how bad the headwind was going to be. It proved to be steady and moderate SE so that it didn't help me for the last few km into Donnybrook, where the road turns ESE, as a south-westerly would have done. Left Harvey at 7.58. Stopped at 22061, 22068 (to look at Brunswick River and pump the tyres, though they didn't need it) 22077, 22090, 22099 (Boyanup). When I turned off the SW highway at Waterloo the road went due south, into the headwind. The country was flat and there wasn't much traffic. The road was sealed, but bumpy. I got a bit confused when I reached the expected road junction a km earlier than calculated, and it looked different from the map. They often do; I have gone 90 degrees off course before now. I had to take the right fork, Italiano Road. Then left again, and I could see Dardanup from several km away, a long street of houses. The place is bigger than it looks from the main highway. It used to be a station on the way to both Busselton and Pemberton when passenger trains ran from Brunswick Junction and Bunbury. It is also on what used to be the main SW highway, before what used to be the North Boyanup Road usurped it between Bunbury and Boyanup. I went through Dardanup without stopping and had my next drink break at Boyanup, where old and new SW highways and railway line converge. I like these country delis where all sorts of people come and go in various vehicles and exchange gossip. Notices about lost dogs, dances, sports, machinery for sale, jobs wanted, are stuck on the window. I arrived in Donnybrook at 12.28. I got into the pleasant motel NW of the town centre. Later I went shopping, sent off some postcards and explored the banks of the Preston River. There were quantities of huge nasturtiums and wild fennel. The track along the bank was partly waterlogged. Some of the houses on the banks were quite picturesque with age and neglect. I crossed the bridge and walked along a road beside an orchard where a machine was working late. The rows of trees ran up a steep slope to a row of houses that looked pleasant in the evening sun. I took a chinese takeaway back to the motel. It was a bit disappointing. Reading at Donnybrook: 22114. Corrected day: 68km. Cumulative 181km, 60.3km/day. Speed to Donnybrook 15.1.
Day 4, Donnybrook - BridgetownThursday 24 October. I left Donnybrook at 8.26 on a fine morning with a moderate SE headwind. This was the fourth day of riding south and I had been lucky so far with the winds. I had been down this road before, (1981 as far as Balingup, 1983, 1985,1987) so I knew what to expect, but it still developed the low point of the trip. I kept going up what seemed to be an everlasting hill for 17km before stopping at Kirup for a drink. At that point I felt like giving up the whole venture. But looking at it logically, what could I do but go on? Going back, even downhill with a tailwind, would be demoralising, and I would still have to get home. There was a hotel at Mullalyup but if I could make another 8km to get there I would be nearly halfway. So I decided to take it easy and keep going. Eventually I reached Balingup (22157) and felt better about everything. After a rest, I crossed the bridge and started up that well-known hill. I got to the top without dismounting.
I felt better now, and went up and down the hills as the distance left fell below 20 km, then 15. I stopped for a last rest at 22157. This time, unlike 1987, I did not manage to get up Hester's Hill without getting off and walking some of it. On every ride there are 'down days' like this had been. Reached Bridgetown at 22170, 12.46. Rode through to the motel, got some shopping, rested, showered, changed, looked round the town, made some long credit-card phone calls, and booked the Kin Kin resort for the next day. I was interested in some of the ornate shopfronts in the main shopping street - relics of other times. Took a walk across the river and through the park. Chicken and chips for dinner. Reading at Bridgetown: 22170km. Corrected day: 58. Aggregate: 239km. km/day 60. kph to Bridgetown 13.
Day 5, Bridgetown - Kin KinFriday 25 October. I left Bridgetown at 8.15. The weather was still cool and sunny with a similar moderate headwind, but it was turning more easterly. The road between Bridgetown and Manjimup is comparatively flat. I rested at Donnelly's Well (22184) and at 22198 (Cosy Creek Road). I cut 5km off the journey to Kin Kin by bypassing Manjimup and taking back roads, including 7-8km of gravel, through Palgarup, Balbarrup and Dingup. I joined the Muirs Highway 8km SE of Manjimup, some 18km by Road from Kin Kin. The road was hilly and the south-easterly wind resisted me. I rested again at Smeathers Road, 22212. I reached Wheatley Coast Road and began a steep descent which lasted most of the 4km to the Kin Kin turnoff. I was pleased to have a map which described the actual roads accurately. This is very important. I turned east onto 4km of gravel through a forest, with open farmland appearing on the left. Kin Kin resort is a series of log cabins with a log central building, all built on a slope of former farmland, with a forest at the top of the slope and the river at the bottom, and numerous swampy areas on the low field. I arrived at 12.11, a bit too early for my room to be ready. After the usual rest and shower I walked into the forest and discovered an orchid, a very small one with a flower less than 1cm across. It comes in white and pale pink. I also saw a yellow buttercup shaped flower with two big insects crammed inside it. Whether this was an insect-trapping flower, or they had gone in after some nectar, or after each other, I do not know. I walked down across the field where some kangaroos and emus ran about, through the resort and down to the Warren River. There was a farmhouse that still had curtains in the window, though there was junk on the verandah and the garden was overgrown. There was the remains of a wooden structure on the riverbank, maybe a jetty for boats at some time. I tried to get back to the resort a different way and had trouble getting round the large pools of water. Many croaking frogs. Dinner was served in the main hall, where there was a big fireplace and pictures of the elderly resort owners and their relatives. A tape played glee club singing of the fifties. All the guests sat at one big table and talked to each other. I was with a foursome, comprising one old couple from Melbourne and their relatives from England. They were on a "If it's Tuesday morning this must be Pemberton" type lightning tour of W.A. They were interested in the fact that I had come, and was going on, by bike. People I meet in the country are always amazed by my bike rides. If I hadn't been doing them on and off for 16 years I suppose I would be too. I paid for dinner and bed but not for breakfast because it wasn't going to be served till 8 and I wanted to be rolling by then. I didn't have far to go but the country was unfamiliar, the roads were going to be rough and I wanted plenty of time. It was at this point in the trip that a quiet alternative plan of mine might have gone into action. I might have turned eastward and made a run for Rocky Gully, thence to Cranbrook and the Stirlings. Had there been, as there well might, a steady westerly wind I would have done it. But there was a fresh easterly overnight and in the morning, so that decided me to head westward, for Pemberton. Reading at Kin Kin: 22226. Corrected day 58km. Cumulative 297km. kpd 59. kph for day 14. 11km of gravel road included.
Day 6, Kin Kin - PembertonSaturday 26 October. Left Kin Kin at 7.55. Another fine cool day, with an easterly wind. I rode the 4km of gravel back to Wheatley Coast Road, then turned left, south, towards Quinninup. True to the map, there were about 7km of gravel before the sealed surface began about 1km north of Quinninup. The road climbed towards Quinninup, then descended to the SW highway after that small town. At SW highway junction, 22240, I had a break, then turned north for 2-3km before turning onto another gravel road, Grays Road, to take a short cut to Pemberton. This cut many km off the journey and I wasn't worried, when planning the day, by the prospect of a bit of gravel. But this gravel was awful. The surface was hard but the stones were large and loose and the firm narrow tyre-worn strips you can usually find on these tracks were not apparent. The bike started fishtailing and only about 100m up the first rise I had my only prang of this trip (22243) when I failed to hold the vee-hickle, was unable to get my feet out of the stirrups in time, and self and bike fell over with a thump onto the gravel. I lay there for a minute thinking this wasn't a very encouraging start to the short-cut, then got up, rubbed myself, checked everything and walked up the rise. I mounted at the top and proceeded carefully. The road improved gradually, even including 1km of old sealed road near a farm. I met some people coming the other way in a four-wheel-drive loaded with canoes. I rested again at 22253 and didn't have any more trouble before reaching the Vasse Highway (22255) 8km from Pemberton. Reached Pemberton, 22263 at 10.55. The 39km (corrected) journey had taken 3 hours, but I was still nice and early. I did some shopping and made some 'phone calls, then I went up to the Gloucester Tree Motel. It was $40 for the night, bed only, they didn't even supply milk for tea and coffee and the place was a bit run down compared with my last stay there in 1982. But there was a balcony to hang my washing and fix the speedometer, later. The room wasn't ready when I arrived so I dumped the heavy luggage in the cupboard and went to climb the Gloucester Tree. A platform has been built round the tree to prevent compaction of the soil, and vehicles must park at more of a distance. This is because the tree has become a major tourist attraction, instead of just a bit of fun for the locals, and it must be able to get water and oxygen to its roots from the area of soil around its base. There are Japanese and Chinese graffiti all the way up the tree and in the cabin, written in felt pen. Under one dense cluster of ideograms someone has written 'fucken asians'. I got up the tree in about 6 minutes. It was my fourth time up so it didn't seem so difficult as the first time. A Japanese honeymoon couple came up shortly after me - the girl was right into it but the boy was scared and couldn't get up off the floor of the cabin for a while. They had some English so I pointed out things you could see from the tree, and answered their questions. After an hour I came down, went back to the motel and slept. Then I got up and spent ages trying to tighten the speedometer attachment that runs on the rim of the front wheel. In the end it wasn't much better. I cleaned off all the red dust resulting from the day's gravel-riding. Showered, checked the large bruise on my arse and went to shop for small packs of drink, and biscuits. The next day would be one of the major challenges of the trip. Got chinese takeaway for tea and took it back to the motel. Reading at end of day in Pemberton: 22267. Corrected day 43. Aggregate 340. kpd 57. kph to Pemberton 13.
Day 7, Pemberton - NannupSunday 27 October. Left Pemberton at 8.35. Rolled down the hill past the centre of town and the silent mill, then began the long climb towards the Vasse Highway junction. There, for the first time, I took the right turn, the road to Nannup, rather than the left for Northcliffe as I had in 1985 and 1987. The previous night I had assumed that the winds would start SE and turn S to SW as the day went on. Since I would be heading WSW, then NW, then north, this would suit me well. In the event the wind wasn't quite as ideal as that but still favourable. As I started on the Vasse Highway I met three cyclists coming out. They weren't carrying any luggage so maybe they were just on a short early morning wobble. Then again, maybe they were fit young men who had ridden the 70km from Nannup before breakfast. The country was green rolling hills with big stands of Karri, turning to Jarrah. I rested at 22282, passed Karri Valley resort, missed the turnoff to the Underwood Tree, rested again at 22297, 22312, 22327. Wildflowers were more in evidence than they had been elsewhere. The ride was just steady routine. There was no hardship, no problems, just the pleasant country rolling by and the day warming up so that I was glad to have carried plenty of drinks and to be stopping every 15km. The last few km into Nannup were downhill, as expected, and I got plenty of speed up. I passed through the Brockman Highway junction, saw the signs, remembered 1981. I passed the cemetery and the park, and stopped at a shop in the long main street of Nannup (actually the Brockman Highway) to consume, and stock up on, drinks. It was 1.22 pm. When I arrived at the hotel I was pleasantly surprised to find that it had been, and was being, improved. I had had my doubts about Nannup since hearing of the demise of the local timber industry. But the town is finding a new lease of life as a tourist destination. It lies at the junction of 5 major roads, a railway line and a river. Next to the hotel is a trendy cafe such as might be found in Fremantle or Northbridge, where they make jams and pickles for sale under their own label. The hotel has had three motel units added, very spacious with timber and high ceilings. Mine had a double and a single bed, a TV and everything you might want for breakfast already supplied. After lunch, rest and shower I explored the river banks. It was difficult to believe that the floods of 1982 had caused the Blackwood river to rise to the level of the main road and damage many buildings. It was apparent that a rapidly flowing lake of considerable expanse must have formed. I looked around the rest of the town, west of the main road. I got dinner at the trendy cafe, then went into the main bar. I met two men who were employed in renovating the hotel. They had previously worked with the timber. We talked of timber, tourists and bike-riding. One of them was a bit drunk. That night I enjoyed the rugby championships on the TV. Reading at Nannup: 22342. Corrected day: 78km. Aggregate 418km. kpd 60. kph to Nannup 16.3. No trouble with speedometer.
Day 8, Nannup - BusseltonMonday 28 October. I had originally planned, if I got this far, to go back to Donnybrook via the back roads through Cundinup, thence to Bunbury and the Old Coast Road. But it seemed better to go instead to beloved Busselton, with all its pleasant memories and attractions. I remembered from 1983 that the road was up and down through the forest then, about 19km from Busselton, I came to the edge of the scarp, saw the coastal plain spread out below, and had an easy run the rest of the way. I left Nannup at 8.44. The wildflowers were the best they had been. I rested at 22357. Saw another orchid, with violet petals and a yellow tongue with a black tip. Saw bushes with numerous pink flowers in the shape of butterflies. As I was coming out of the forest I saw another cyclist whizz by going towards Nannup. I started to come down from the scarp between 20-25km from Nannup. Rested again at 22373. The wind didn't seem as helpful as I had expected. Instead of bowling along with a SW breeze I found myself fighting a moderate NNW as I headed for Busselton across the coastal plain. This told me that showers were coming. I hoped they would not interfere too much the next day. I rested again at 22388, near a miniature railway. When I arrived at the crossroads where Queen Street starts, there is now a traffic light. I had to dodge a truck that came to the lights at the same time as I did, and swear at a country bumpkin in a panel van who thought it was all right to do a squealing right turn across my path. Anyway I reached the Esplanade Hotel (22401) at 12.34. And as so often before, 11 times since 1977, I booked into one of the upstairs rooms, facing the sea. I felt a great deal of pleasure walking along the familiar creaking carpeted passage, seeing the familiar bathroom, remembering the relief at having got this far, by various means, that I had felt on every occasion. Got some lunch at a corner shop and had a sleep. Then I had a swim in waters that were getting choppy and cloudy with the approaching weather. They have removed some of the pine trees on the beachfront and built a huge concrete area, with a flagpole in the middle. This was depressing. What they want is more trees and lawns. After a shower and change I went to try and walk on the jetty. I had not been there for three years, it had been falling down when I last saw it, there had been a fire during 1990, so I was not optimistic. But they have decided to restore the thing to its original length! You can now only get onto it through a turnstile, where you have to pay, but I was glad to do so. The burnt section has been rebuilt with strengthened piles and concrete decking. I walked right to the end, where the navigation light still flashes. There were plenty of fisherpeople but they weren't pulling in as much as I remembered in past years. Maybe the weather had something to do with it. It was getting dark when I returned. I made some phone calls and went for a chinese dinner, then to the bar of the Esplanade to play the juke box, watch games of pool and have a drink. Afterwards I discovered that the guests' lounge, that used to be a wreck has been redecorated and there was nice furniture, pictures, coffee makings and a colour TV that worked. It was the first time that I have sat in that lounge and watched TV. Reading at Busselton: 22401. Corrected day 61. Aggregate 479. kpd 60. kph to Busselton 16.
Day 9, Busselton - BunburyTuesday 29 October. There was no hurry about leaving Busselton this morning because I was only going to Bunbury and the Bunbury-Busselton road could be ridden by a cripple in his sleep (that description nearly applied to me a couple of times in past years). I had a morning swim and set off at 9.39, going as usual by Geographe Bay Road to get back to the Bussell Highway through Wonnerup. There was something nudging at my memory but I couldn't remember what it was, until I came up against a pile of sand, and I recalled from 1988 that a storm washed away a section of GB Road during 1986. It was much too close to the sea and they haven't bothered to rebuild it. I had to find the continuation of the road by dragging the bike through a few hundred metres of sand. I rode past the old Wonnerup Homestead and stopped for a rest at Ludlow (22415). I had lost a bit of time with the sand, also by stopping to unpack my luggage to check if I had left something behind. There were a lot of trucks. I stopped at Colroy's tearooms at Capel for the traditional (going back to 1977) refreshment, then set out to break my old Capel-Bunbury time, 68 minutes set in 1984. That was timed from the tearooms to the old railway station. On this occasion I was heading for the Ocean Drive Motel, so if I did 68 minutes again it would break the old record, being for a longer distance. I left Capel at 11.30, put the bike in top and with a fair wind and a cool day, didn't stop again until I pulled up at the OD Motel, where I stayed in 1962 and 1969 with my parents and sisters, at 12.38. A new record. I got to Ocean Drive by turning off the Bussell Highway at Washington Avenue, so a headwind and hills impeded me for a few km. Booked into the motel, nice room, lunch, rest then a swim in the rough sea. Had to go up a way to avoid rocks. Sea rather murky - runoff from the late rains? Had a shower then rode into Bunbury to look at familiar places. I found the roads around the former railway station much changed from my old map. Also, there is a new bridge over the water. All this confused me. I got onto the old jetty that used to be a berth for cargo ships. It is now deserted and falling to pieces. No-one else around. I was surprised to see what looked like an old passenger ship, called the 'Doulos', berthed across the water. I didn't know passenger ships had ever berthed at Bunbury, even when more ships did. Later this ship came to Fremantle and its story was reported. It is about 70 years old and travels round the world providing books for people, stopping at many odd ports. Bought some chinese takeaway food at the restaurant still there near the Rose Hotel. Reading at Bunbury: On arrival 22454. End of day 22464. Corrected 65km. Aggregate 544. kpd 60.
Day 10, Bunbury - MandurahWednesday 30 October. This day was to be a challenge. For the third time I was going to do the 100km to Mandurah in one day. The first time, in 1979, I had the old Gordonson bike, the maximum temperature was 34deg and there was only a light SE to help me some of the way. I did the journey in 5 hr 50 min, leaving the Rose Hotel in the centre of Bunbury at 9.10 and arriving at the Brighton Hotel, Mandurah, at 3pm. The second time, in 1986, the same journey took 5 hr 48 min (6.18 - 12.06). On that occasion I had the present bike and I was attempting, successfully, to do the 164km from Bunbury to home in one day. The weather was cool that day but the sea breeze didn't arrive until after I had reached Mandurah. On this day, like Day 9, the sea breeze started early and looked set to freshen, so I was confident of a record. The journey would be longer, since I was starting from the OD motel. Left the motel at 8.47. I didn't study the new map enough before starting, so I missed the turnoff that would have taken me up the former Old Coast Road route. This is now called Estuary Road. I went some way up the new Australind Bypass before deciding to check the map. This mistake cost me 5 - 10 minutes. I stopped after 31km (22495) at Myalup, then again at Yalgorup National Park (22516) and finally at the Caltex service station (22540). I was sufficiently far inland for the influence of the sea breeze to be much reduced, and I wasn't getting blown along as I had hoped. I took the short cut after Australind, the scenic drive called Cathedral Avenue. This is a poor road but quiet and it cuts several km and some hills off the journey. The Old Coast Road is quite hilly in parts, especially towards Mandurah. The day was warming up. Big trucks all the time. I arrived in Mandurah at 2.08 (22563). This set a new record for me, of 5 hr 21 min. I booked into the Brighton Hotel and got a nice old-fashioned room overlooking the main road, with its own balcony where I could hang my washed clothes. There had been stories about pollution of the popular swimming area in front of the hotel and along Mandurah Terrace. Indeed it was green and murky, so I had a careful swim, keeping my head out of the water and showering before using my towel. I needed the swim after that ride. Had dinner in an Italian restaurant and slept rather badly, waking every two hours and having to take a walk. Still it was better than 1979 when I spent the night vomiting and had to ride to Cottesloe the next day with an empty stomach and 37deg heat. Reading at Mandurah (end-of-day): 22564km. Corrected day: 104km. Cumulative distance 648. kpd 65. kph to Mandurah 19.3.
Day 11, Mandurah - CottesloeThursday 31 October. Left Mandurah at 8.50. The sea breeze was starting early and would be fresh by midday. I knew this road and would be going through increasingly built-up areas. There was no reason to stop at regular intervals, or at all. But I stopped at Naval Base (22601) then kept going straight on home, which I reached at 11.50, exactly 3 hours after leaving Mandurah. This was also a record, but not much of one, since I was so sick in 1979 that it didn't count, and in 1986 I was on the last leg of a 164km day's trip when I did Mandurah-Cottesloe in 3 hours 20 minutes. Final speedo reading: 22626km. Corrected day 64. Total for trip 712. km/day 65. kph to Mandurah 21.
Charles A. Pierce, 1991 Do you have questions about bicycle touring in Western Australia's SouthWest? You're welcome to ask Charles!
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