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Bicycle Tours in South Western Australia:Bunbury - Augusta & return8 days, 561 km [map]
DAY 1, Bunbury - DunsboroughMONDAY 26 OCTOBER. 1992 The bike had been taken down separately by Niteroad and left at Malatesta's depot in Bunbury. I had taken the evening train and stayed at a Bunbury motel overnight on the 25th. After packing up, walking 2km to the depot, reassembling the bike and stowing the luggage I set off down Brittain street towards Bussell Highway at 9.18, 24678. It was a fine cool sunny morning with a light headwind. The idea was to start this leg of the ride early rather than after midday as I would have had to if I had caught that morning's train to Bunbury. Thus I hoped to avoid the fresher wind that always develops in the afternoon, and have more time. I thought I might get as far as Yallingup before my first overnight stop. I had made no booking and was going to decide, and book, when I reached Busselton. I had a drink stop at Stratham, 24693, went through Capel without stopping, took another stop at Ludlow, 24712, and arrived in Busselton at 12.09, 24728. The speedo was reading correctly because it had a new cable and wheel fixture. By this time the westerly headwind was freshening and I decided that Dunsborough would be far enough for this day. Accomodation between Dunsborough and Augusta, rip-off row, is more expensive than average, so I first tried the Yungarra Lodge, the cheapest. It was not on my map, and as the man explained where it was I changed my mind, apologised to him, told him I was on a bike and that it would be better if I found somewhere in the centre of Dunsborough. He understood. I booked a unit in Dunsborough Village Resort, $58, still cheaper than the motel there. I took another rest at Siesta Park, 24740, then arrived Dunsborough, 24751, at 2.25. The headwind was very strong all the way and a few showers fell. I had intended dumping the heavy luggage on reaching Dunsborough and going for a swim at Meelup, but weather and strain made me decide to rest that afternoon and try for Meelup in the morning before going on to Margaret River. I did have a swim in Dunn Bay, but the water was brownish and very shallow to a long way out. I waded out to a dark patch but it was a bank of weeds, not deeper water. Still the swim was refreshing. The unit was very spacious, with its own kitchen, dining area, laundry, separate bedroom. The walls were plastered with rules and orders. The price wasn't bad for what it was, though all I wanted was a simple room with plumbing. Had takeaway chinese for tea, after the usual phone calls. Reading at Dunsborough: 24751. km for day: 73. Average speed: 14.3 kph.
DAY 2, Dunsborough - Margaret RiverTUESDAY 27 OCTOBER. The morning was cold and grey, with rain pouring down. It looked as though I would miss Meelup this year as well. I lay in bed eating breakfast and reading. At 7.45 I looked up, the rain had stopped and there was a patch of blue. I jumped up, put on my bathers and set off for Meelup after all. The stats for the trip (for future reference): Left motel 7.50, 24751. Arr Meelup 8.10, 24758. Dep Meelup 8.42, arr. back at motel 9.03, 24764. It was worth the effort as always. The water was perfectly clear and calm and felt good. The scenery was as I remembered it, and it hasn't been spoilt by too many amenities. Left Dunsborough Village Resort 10.01 (now fine, light SW), climbed till 24768, rested at 24778, at 24793 (Harman's Road) turned into Carters Road at 24804, reached Margaret River, 24810, at 1.08, only to find that the relatively new motel was back out of town, just north of the Carters Road turnoff. Actually I remembered seeing it there in 1988. It was $60 a night, the rate for a double, since they wouldn't accept single bookings, but it was still the cheapest motel in town. Cheaper rooms were at dubious lodges and hostels. It wasn't bad since I had paid $50 four years before for an inferior unit at Margaret River Hotel, where a generous 'continental' breakfast wasn't included in the price. But it was more than '5 minutes walk from town centre' even for me. After a rest etc. I took the heritage walk across the river and through the forest to the dam, in search of wildflowers. These were disappointing. I was to have better luck later in the trip. I came back down through the town, finding no takeaway food until I got to the Shell roadhouse, where all they had left was four sausages and a few chips. It had to do. Reading at end of day: 24811. Day's ride: 60 km. Aggregate: 133. km/day: 66.5. Average speed to Margaret River: 14.8 km/hour.
DAY 3, Margaret River - AugustaWEDNESDAY 28 OCTOBER. Fine, light SW. I left the motel at 7.56 and rode up through the town (24812), taking the turnoff to get to Boodjidup Road, thence to Caves Road. I was aiming to be at Lake Cave in plenty of time for the 9.30 tour advertised in the local tourist paper in the motel unit. I passed the Mammoth Cave turnoff 15 km from Margaret River and reached Lake Cave, 24830, at 9.04. The tour time had been changed to 10 am so I had time for a drink and a walk on the trail to look for wildflowers. I was rewarded by a donkey orchid, hundreds of pink-to-purple fairy orchids and one pure white 'albino' one, and a large blue flower which I was to see several times at other places, which I believe was also an orchid. It had six petals, but one was undersized, and it had a tongue, though not a large one, an orchid like growth and orchid-like leaves. I have seen all the caves before but I enjoy Lake Cave because of the enormous hole in the ground into which one must descend before reaching the entrance to the cave. This hole was also a cave, whose roof collapsed about 50,000 years ago. The stalcatites and other formations are still there. It would have been a splendid cave. I left Lake Cave at 11.18, rested at 24845, met the Bussell Highway at Karridale, 24850, passed through Kudardup 24857, arrived in Augusta at 1.17, 24864. After getting into the motel unit ($45) and dumping the heavy luggage I set out for Cape Leeuwin, making a small mark on the Matthew Flinders lookout (24870) to go with other marks made from 1980. I came back via Albany Terrace, enjoying a swim at Flinders Bay. After a rest and the usual 'phone calls I had chicken and squid rings and chips for tea. It was all fresh and tasty. Reading at end of day: 24878. Day's ride: 67. Aggregate: 200. km/day: 66.7
DAY 4, Augusta - NannupTHURSDAY 29 OCTOBER. This was to be the big challenge of the trip, the ride to Nannup along the Brockman Highway. I had worked out a short cut through Kudardup, instead of taking the main highway through Karridale. It only saved 3km but that's a long way if one has an attack of cramp. The journey would be 87km.
I left Augusta at 8.03. The morning was fine and cool with a light southerly, which the forecast the night before had promised would turn into a fresh sea breeze later - ideal conditions. This was something of a miracle because that forecast, given at 7.30 the on Wednesday evening, was a dramatic change from the much less favourable forecast given at noon on Wednesday. I turned off at Kudardup Road, which I had to check on the map because the road sign was missing. The roads were sealed and quiet, and I was entertained by an interesting radio talk from the Augusta RN repeater about U.S. President Harry Truman and the post-war era. I didn't make my first stop till 18km out, 24896, at the Brockman Highway junction. I turned eastward and the wind was less favourable, though gradually getting a stronger W element. My next stop was at the Nannup Shire boundary sign, 24913. I was into the state forest by then. The wildflowers were at their best. I saw what I think was a large blue orchid, a true blue, not violet, though later in the trip I saw a violet variety. I reckoned that my next stop would see me with under 40km to go, and the word 'doddle' was coming into my mind. I felt fine. I peddled on and rested again at 24929, with only 36km to go, and at 24944. The day was cool and the wind favourable all the way, but the repeated hill-climbing was starting to tell. You gain no energy coming down a hill, but lose a lot going up it. I was starting to feel aches and pains everywhere, and my strength was going. The last 15km were difficult. But I arrived in Nannup at 1.27pm, 24965, having done the last 21km in only 67 minutes and the whole journey, which was 87km exactly as estimated, in 5hr 24 min., with one fewer rest-stop than I had planned. I then saw the old mistake I had made. Being rather intimidated by the distance, I had tried to go too fast and had not stopped often enough. On Wednesday evening I had estimated that the ride would take 6 hours and require five drink stops, and I would have felt better had I taken all that time and all those stops. You can go further if you go more slowly. I got into my motel unit, previously booked. I stayed in one of these units in 1991, when they were quite new, and they have started to deteriorate already. It was $40. Nannup, as noted before (Biketrip 91) has recovered from its demise as a timber town to become a trendy town, a sort of Margaret River. I had Chicken and Chips and Nachos for tea, after a walk round the town and the usual phone calls. I didn't go into the bar and socialise this time because I just wanted to lie around and be quiet and watch TV. Reading at Nannup: 24965. Day's ride: 87km. Aggregate: 287km. km/day: 71.8. Speed from Augusta to Nannup: 16.1 kph.
DAY 5, Nannup - DonnybrookFRIDAY 30 OCTOBER. I decided to go ahead with the plan that I had changed in 1991 - to go from Nannup to Donnybrook the short way, via Cundinup, White, Claymore and Upper Capel roads, a distance which I estimated at 50km., rather than the long way by road via Balingup, Kirup etcetera, about 76km. I left Nannup at 9.14, having slept in a bit because I thought it would be a short day's work. Winds were SSE, not the E that had been threatened. I started up the Vasse Highway towards Busselton, but 3km out I turned right to get onto the Old Cundinup Road, a rough gravel track. I knew it would be and I have ridden gravel before, but this was mostly unridable because it contained a lot of sand and the weather had been dry. It went up and down steeply which meant I had to walk much of it. However there was a pleasant surprise at 24974, after 6km gravel, because the Cundinup Road, which the map showed to be gravel, was in fact bitumen for the next 10km. I took a rest at 24977, then came to a junction (24984) at which the sealed road went off to join the SW highway, and the short way I had chosen turned into gravel again. It was just as bad as before, with a lot of plodding through sand and slippery stones, and one fall (24791) when what seemed to be a firm surface crumbled and I skidded over onto my right side, twisting the handle-bars, burying my face in the sand and bruising my right hip and pulling a few muscles. I moved along White Road and Claymore Road, took a rest at 24789, again at 24796. This was the point at which the map showed the bitumen starting again,but in fact it took another 2km of plodding skidding uncertainty before it cut in. After that it should have been easy travelling but I was stiff and sore from the fall and seemed not to have much strength or wind. There were some steep hills. I passed an emu farm with emus walking about the paddock instead of sheep or cattle. I took another rest at 25008 and in due course came to a sign saying 'steep descent'. I was bowling down this at 70 kph and saw something in the middle of the road. It turned out to be a large goanna, a proper one, not the bobtail skink. I just avoided it and it flicked its tongue at me. I passed the famous Donnybrook Stone quarry 4km from the town, entered the town, passed a children's sports day in full scream and reached the motel at 1.56pm. I could hardly walk, but had a couple of hours' sleep and felt much better. Had a swim in the motel pool, then after an easier walk and the 'phone calls I got a large pizza for tea. There was enough left over for breakfast. Reading at Donnybrook: 25018. Day's ride: 53km. Aggregate:340. km/day: 68. Speed to Donnybrook: 11.3 km/hour. This pathetic speed was caused by having to walk much of the way, taking four drink stops, three lost stops and the fall.
DAY 6, Donnybrook - HarveySATURDAY 31 OCTOBER. This was the start of a spell of strong easterly winds which was to last into the following week. They had been forecast to start on the Friday but fortunately fresh southerlies persisted that long at least. I was heading back north towards Perth and was frustrated not to have the fresh S-SW winds which normally prevail and which had impeded my progress SW from Bunbury. But that's the way it goes. I decided to bypass Bunbury and go straight to Harvey via Waterloo, by the same route, though in the reverse direction, as Day 3 of the 1991 ride. I had made no hotel booking the night before. I had decided to make this a free day, just to see how far I felt like going, depending on winds and fitness. It is true that not having a definite goal takes the pressure off. I knew I could reach a hotel somewhere, so I wasn't worried. I could stop as early as Brunswick, or go as far as Waroona, or even wimp into Bunbury. The previous night I had toyed with the idea of deviating to Collie and coming back to Harvey the next day via rough tracks, but winds, the two hard days I had had and the lack of a good map of the area made me decide to stick to the coastal plain. I was hoping at least to get as far as Yarloop and stay in the little hotel there, never having done so before. I left Donnybrook at 9.18, passed through Boyanup (25032), turning off the main SW highway, formerly the North Boyanup Road, and getting onto the Boyanup-Dardanup Road, formerly the SW highway. I rested at 25034. I passed though Dardanup (25042) turned north onto Recreation Road (25043) and found that the strong wind was ESE, which would not help me once I rejoined the SW highway. They were playing cricket on the stubbly paddock beside Recreation Road. I reached Italiano Road at 25046 and Waterloo-Dardanup Road at 25047. I took a rest at 25050 and found what seemed to be a variety of lavender beside the road. I stuck it on the back to take home. The SW highway was rejoined at 25052 and I fought a strong headwind which turned and became a tricky cross-breeze as the road gradually turned more NE. I reached Brunswick Junction at 25064 and rested by the river, having some biscuits and a drink. I was starting to think that Harvey would be far enough today, but I would not decide until I reached there whether or not to tackle the last 14km to Yarloop. I did the 20km to Harvey non-stop and decided as I reached the turnoff that I would stop here for the night and hope for fairer winds. I would be 2 days from home anyway. I reached the Wagon Wheels Motel, 25084, at 1.29. I thought I would stay here as a change from the Harvey Hotel, but the place was more expensive ($45) than the Donnybrook Motel and not as good. There were no insect screens, no pool and nowhere to hang clothes. It had 2 stars in the RAC guide, don't know why. I cycled into town to get food and drinks and came back for a sleep. Later I walked back into town, had a walk round, made 'phone calls and got takeaway Lasagna for tea, before returning to the motel for the enjoyable Saturday night TV lineup. Reading at Harvey, end-of-day: 25086. Day's ride: 68km. Aggregate: 408km. km/day: 68. Speed to Harvey: 15.8 kph.
DAY 7, Harvey - Lake CliftonSUNDAY 1 NOVEMBER 1992. The winds had ben very strong ENE during the night, so that my washing had got blown away into the carpark. It was just as well I checked it before going to bed. I decided to use the wind to head for the coast, where the winds might be more SE or I might pick up a sea breeze. I decided to leave the SW highway for good at the Yarloop turnoff, since my map showed sealed roads going from there right through to the Old Coast Road. I started at 9.16 on a cool sunny morning and as I went on I noticed that the wind had become quite light and seemed more SE. This was at variance with the forecast and unexpected after the blustery night. I saw no reason to depart from the plan. I reached the centre of Yarloop, 25102, near the hotel and deli-newsagent to have a drink break and ring up the Lake Clifton motel, where I had decided to stay the night, since Mandurah might be a bit too far and I wasn't sure of anywhere in between. I made the booking and started off, having got the advice of the lady in the deli that Johnston Street was the one to take, being the only one sealed all the way. It was a beautiful ride, with a steady tailwind on a cool sunny morning, almost no traffic, no bad hills and pretty countryside. I rested at 25118, near the top of a rise amid stately pine plantations. I met the Old Coast Road at 25120, turned onto it and had to accustom myself to the rushing stream of traffic in both directions. The wind was SE but the day was warming up. At 25122 I passed the Waroona turnoff. The sign said 'Waroona 26km.' I arrived at Lake Clifton at 12.16, 25135. The wind was now definitely light SW. There are 6 motel units, $25 a night, very cheap but not as well maintained as some. I chose the bed that wasn't subsiding underneath and the colour TV kept losing colour. I had to click the tuning knob back and forth every time it happened. But after being on for a while that evening it settled down. The place was full of mosquitoes but there were fly screens and mosquito coils had been thoughtfully provided. I think the mossies were coming out of the drains in the shower and basin, so I plugged these. I went out and peacocks were wandering around freely, making a noise like cats or babies. I climbed a fence and headed across a paddock, hoping to have a brief dip in the lake. I came to another fence festooned with a huge colony of spiders, climbed over it, fought through a mass of reeds with thousands more spiders. When still some way from clear water I was up to my ankles in smelly water, and the lake itself was shallow with very soft yellow mud. I decided against the swim and struggled back, washed my boots and settled down to lunch, bought at the shop, watched a game of pyjama cricket on TV then had a rest. Later I showered and walked around, finding some peacocks with their tails fully up. I looked at the kangaroos and emus and the aviary and made some 'phone calls. Then I went to the tavern, the heart of the place, for Chicken Kiev. I was suffering a lot from hay fever. I had a pleasant evening of TV before trying to sleep, but had a bad night. With hay fever, legs jumping and itching all over I must only have dozed for a couple of hours all night. It was nothing to do with mossies, they were under control by this time. Next morning a peacock bustled up to the row of units and stalked officiously along it, peering in through the windows and doors and screeching. Obviously it was his job to speed the parting guests. Another peacock was slowly hoisting his tail when I looked out of the door, upon which he hurriedly clamped his wings over his tail and peered anxiously at me behind him, for all the world like someone embarrassed by a gust of wind blowing their skirts up. Reading at Lake Clifton: 25135. Day's ride: 49 km. Aggregate 457. km/day 66.1. Speed to Lake Clifton 16.3 kph.
DAY 8, Lake Clifton - CottesloeMONDAY 2 NOVEMBER. I left Lake Clifton at 8.47. There was a fresh SE wind that was to last all day. The speedo read 25136 as I turned onto the Old Coast Road. I passed the Parkridge Hotel, formerly the lazy crab resort, at 25150. This might have been a better place to stay in terms of evening out the distances for days 7 and 8, but it was more expensive and lacked peacocks, besides which I had forgotten it was there and didn't think to look it up. I rested at 25152. The SE wind was opposing me quite strongly as I approached Mandurah, because the road turns more E. I reached Mandurah at 10.31, 25168. I got some food and settled down on the grass on the waterfront opposite the Brighton Hotel for a longer rest. Just then a tourist coach pulled up and discharged a load of greasers all round me. There was a monk with a brown cassock and a huge grey beard and a lot of oddly-dressed people jabbering and clicking cameras. After my rest I continued north, taking another rest at a convenient bus-stop at 25184. The day was warming up. Further on I had to stop at my first traffic light for hundreds of km. This is always a strange experience after a lot of country travelling, where my stops are regulated and I can do 20km without stopping, or as much as I like. In 1980 I did the 48 km from Margaret River to Busselton non-stop in 1 hour 55 minutes. That trip is more downhill than up and I had a SE wind that day too. Instead of continuing the long grind home on a warm day I decided to take a diversion through Kwinana Town Centre, to rest in the air-conditioned shopping centre for a while, get some polaramine pills and wait to see if a sea breeze would arrive. Having no Perth street map I misjudged the distance involved - I thought it would be a few km. I reached Office Road at 25202, turned off there, and arrived back on the main road via Thomas Street, at 25213. The distance on the main road between Office and Thomas is about 3km, so I added 8km to the trip.I reached Coogee at 25226 and took another rest. I didn't feel up to a swim. I left there at 3.25 and headed up the familiar track through South Fremantle and past Fremantle, with the rush-hour traffic growing. I reached Cottesloe Post Office at 4.03, 25239. I ended the ride here because I wanted to collect a week's mail (they had lost it) and buy some groceries. This was equal to the second biggest day's ride I had ever done, the longest being the 1986 Bunbury-Cottesloe effort, 164 km. Reading at end: 25239km. Day's ride: 104km. Aggregate: 561km. Km/day: 70.1 (a record average). Speeds: Lake Clifton-Cottesloe: 14.3 kph. Lake Clifton-Mandurah: 19 kph. Coogee-Cottesloe: 20.5 kph.
Charles A Pierce 1992 Do you have questions about bicycle touring in Western Australia's SouthWest? You're welcome to ask Charles!
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