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Bicycle Tours in South Western Australia:Cottesloe - Dwellingup - Armadale3 days, 181 km
DAY 1, Cottesloe - Mandurah MONDAY 12 SEPTEMBER 1994 Left home at 9:14, 205. Winds NE. Weather this week was to be almost the same, day for day, as the previous week, only this time I was going in the opposite direction, so I was going to get along much better. I rested after 1 hour and 22 km, at Cockburn Village, then again at 244 and 259 (Singleton Beach). I arrived at the Brighton Hotel in Mandurah at 12:51, 270. Had a rest and then cycled 2km to the ocean beach, since the estuary is too polluted for swimming. Instead of having a counter meal at the Brighton I felt like a chinese dinner. I went up the road and ordered Mango Chicken, but what arrived was different from what I had had before. There was too much mango and a lot of gloopy orange sauce, and the chicken was mostly batter. After this I spent the evening on the decking under the old bridge, with the fisherpeople. An old lady was pulling them in, salmon trout. Some other people didn't get much and didn't stay long. The old lady told me how the dolphins often interfered with the fishing, as did a curious bird that showed up and hung around, a bit bigger than a crow and similar in body, but with the long legs and big footies of a wading bird. She couldn't remember what it was called, said it was in the bird book. About 8 a small commotion heralded the arrival of a real fishing character, a small but lively man in a beanie and stained worn clothes, a lot of dark hair and a full beard, with a sleepy black and white dog and a battered bag with his stuff for the evening. He asked the dog "D'you want your rug yet?" The dog didn't reply so the man got out the rug and spread it out on the deck, patted the dog and settled him down before starting to prepare his tackle. He bustled about, the deck shaking with his energy. This was to be the way all evening - most fisherpeople just sit quietly, but this man was very busy, running about, tripping over his lines, pulling things in and out of his bag, landing and killing fish, redoing the lines, talking continuously with his dog, myself, the old lady (whose name was Mary) and anyone else who turned up. He caught about a dozen fine salmon trout, while he told me the story of his life and those of the old diggers and other friends to whom he was going to give most of the fish. His name was Dave. He had been unemployed for 'too long', his marriage had broken up, his mother was dead, his back trouble prevented him from most work that he might be able to do, but he believed that 36 was too young to go on a pension. He had a pleasant relationship with other denizens of the estuary. Once he turned off his radio and said "Listen!" Sure enough, there was a playful splashing not far away in the dark. "Fuckin' dolphins!" said Dave. We heard them blowing off. Maybe there was only one, swimming back and forth under the bridge. I never saw it though it got very close. Then it went away and didn't return. Dave told me that there is a plan to demolish the Brighton Hotel and build a tavern and cinema complex. I was saddened by this. The tide was coming in fast, and the occasional prawn could be seen swimming under the bridge with the current. A pelican glided into view. Dave said "Oh, the pelicans have showed up, have they?" His fishing improved after the dolphin had been through - he said that dolphins can chase the fish away, or drive them in. Also, he brought out what he called the 'heavy artillery' a line with a sinker and two hooks. He got a couple of 'double headers' with a big fish on each hook. Eventually I went to bed and had a terrible night with indigestion. In all the stuff in my first aid kit there was no antacid. I did get a few hours' sleep, and went back to bed for a while after an excellent Brighton breakfast, then got a box of Rennies before setting off next morning. Reading at Mandurah: 274. Day's ride: 69 km. Aggregate: 69 km km/day: 69. Speed to Mandurah: 18 kph.
DAY 2, Mandurah - DwellingupTUESDAY 13 SEPTEMBER 1994 I LEFT Mandurah at 9:25. West wind, fine morning but clouding up. I rested for the first time in Pinjarra, reaching it at 10:25, 294. Then north over the bridge past the old hotel, turn right onto the Dwellingup road. Now there was a steady climbing trend, which was preferable to an easy runup followed by a steep long ascent. I rested again at 306 and at last met a sign saying STEEP CLIMB at 309.5. I got up nearly all of this without having to walk, and it levelled off at about 314. The hilly country was very pretty. 315-317 was downhill and I arrived in Dwellingup at 318, 12:14. Rain only just began after I arrived. After a rest I went for a walk round the town and through the forests. When I got back to the hotel all my stuff had been moved out of my room and someone else's moved in. Three old couples had arrived during the afternoon and found that their booking, made 6 weeks before, had been forgotten. Anyway, once I was sure that none of my stuff was missing, my new room was a better one. Room, 3-course dinner, light breakfast, $37, not bad, though the place isn't as well run as the Brighton. The bar, dining room and games area are all in one big room, and during dinner a team of women walked in all wearing black tracksuits with gold badges and lettering saying RAVO THE RAVENSWOOD HOTEL. They were the darts team from Ravenswood, some 40 km to the west, come to play the Hills, or Dwellingup team. I watched the match which was very serious and took a couple of hours. A RAVO lady called Val explained the game to me. At 10 o'clock they had their supper - the ravoes had brought a plate of sandwiches - and had more beer. Drinks had been flowing all night and now someone had the idea of playing another informal game. The barkeeper reminded them of the time, upon which one Hills battleaxe started to tell him fuck this, and fuck that, which inspired the retort "You talk like that and I'll chuck you out now!" Reading at Dwellingup: 318. Day's ride: 44 km. Aggregate 113. Km/day 56.5. Speed to Dwellingup: 15.6 kph.
DAY 3, Dwellingup - ArmadaleWEDNESDAY 14 SEPTEMBER. Cold sunny morning, light easterly. Oiled the bike because it had got damp the previous day. Left the hotel at 8:13. Nice hilly ride through the forest. I didn't mind the hills because I knew I was going to get a downhill run soon, and expected a nice tailwind and a steady run up the SW highway. In the event, the sea breeze didn't arrive until my ride was finished, but the light easterly wasn't a problem. I rested at 334, came to the splendid view of the coastal plain at 338, ran downhill reaching speeds (according to the accurate new speedo) of 60-70 kph, and passed through North Dandalup at 344. I took a rest at 355. The SW highway rises back into the hills a bit before falling again towards Armadale. The rising trend began at 357, more after 362 (Serpentine), levelling off at 372. I took another rest at 376, passed the ARMADALE sign at 12:01, 385, and reached Armadale station by turningleft down William Street. I arrived at the station at 12:05, 386. The ride ended here as I caught the train just arriving. Reading at Armadale: 386. 68 km for the day. Aggregate: 181. Km/day: 60.3. Speed to Armadale: 17.6 kph.
Charles A Pierce 1994 Do you have questions about bicycle touring in Western Australia's SouthWest? You're welcome to ask Charles!
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